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Western
Silversmith History
Silver was one of the first metals refined
and used by humans. It is thought that only gold and copper
predate its use. It is an economically valuable metal for
several reasons. First, it's scarcity makes it a more costly
metal. Second, it has an attractive, almost luminescent appearance
that is highly desirable for display. Third, it is a malleable,
easily worked metal that can be shaped into a variety of objects.
Finally, it has many uses not only in personal adornment,
but also in industry and in medicine.
Silver
as adornment predates modern history. It was already being
separated from ore by 5,000 BC. Several ancient civilizations
are known to have attained a high degree of proficiency at
working this magic metal. It was long thought that the Greeks
were the first true masters of silver and gold smithing, but
that changed in the 1920's when the tomb of the Mesopotamian
Queen Pu-Abi was unearthed revealing an elaborate filigree
knife sheath dating from 2600 BC.
Filigree,
a technique of working with fine filaments of silver to form
elaborate designs, takes years to master and requires a high
degree of sophistication. The filigree on Pu-Abi's sheath,
as well as other fine examples found in the tomb of Tutankhamun,
prove that the art of silversmithing had been practiced and
refined for an extended period prior to 2600 BC.
After
the Mesopotamians and Egyptians, the Greeks continued to evolve
and refine the art of silver manipulation, applying their
own tastes and techniques. Typically, traditional Greek jewelry
featured sculptural renderings of natural forms, similar in
content to their classical statuary. With the rise of their
empire, the Romans drew much of their skill in working precious
metals from techniques perfected by the Greeks. The similarities
between Greek and Roman jewelry end with the craft. In style,
Roman jewelry making tended to be based on the use of color,
as in semiprecious stones. Designs were simpler not because
of a lack of ability but rather because the Romans preferred
the look.
As the
Romans spread their influence throughout the Empire, the art
and craft of silver work, like so many other trades, was transferred
to far off lands. The Celts produced highly stylized jewelry
in silver and gold from about 500 BC to 500 AD. Their intricate
knotwork designs were highly prized and traded throughout
the Mediterranean. The influence of Celtic design can be seen
throughout the Middle Ages in the work of Irish monks and
artisans. Celtic motifs in jewelry have become a sort of subculture
unto themselves, with whole companies dedicated to the production
of this genre.
Many of
the traditions associated with the Egyptians and Romans, filigree
as an example, were lost with the advent of Rome's decline.
It was not until the late Medieval period that their technical
prowess was rivaled. As European civilization emerged from
the Dark ages, jewelry making and the wearing of precious
metal objects became more popular. With the rise of the merchant
class, starting in Venice then spreading throughout Europe,
the nobility imposed restrictions on who could wear jewelry
and of what type. Fearing they would be upstaged, Europe's
ruling class forbade the wearing of jewelry that would be
considered "above their class" by non-royals and
specifically the nouveau-riche.
With the
Renaissance, art of all forms flourished. Jewelry making attained
a diversity and technical merit not seen in over a thousand
years. The appetite for precious metal jewelry kept pace with
important new gold and silver sources in the Americas. While
the level of production of gold and silver had remained mostly
stagnant or even declined after the fall of the Roman Empire,
production of ore increased dramatically once the rich mines
of South America were more fully utilized.
After
the Renaissance, jewelry making went through various periods
that define popular genres. Whereas previous eras of jewelry
making are referred to by culture or regional reference (i.e.
Egyptian or Celtic), jewelry of the post-Renaissance takes
on a more trend oriented identification. Think of Victorian,
Art Nouveau or Retro period pieces. In addition, new manufacturing
techniques and refinements make for mass production on a scale
never before seen. Art meets innovation via the Industrial
Revolution.
Today,
the idea of artisan crafted jewelry is not lost. Like most
labor-intensive economic activities, the production of commercial
jewelry has shifted to countries with lower costs. For the
past decade or so, India, Thailand and Bali have been major
sources of good quality silver and gold jewelry that is produced
at a reasonable price. Currently, like so many other household
items in Western culture, China is becoming a world player
in the production of silver jewelry. The Chinese producers,
though not of the same caliber of technical skill as the Indians
or Balinese, have added thoroughly modern production techniques
that combine the best of casting and hand finish work. We
will undoubtedly see their dominance rise over the next five
years as the Chinese more fully develop their skills in hand
smithing, .
And what
about the traditional artisan of Western culture? They seem
to have been relegated into three typical molds: the designer,
the commercial artisan, and the hobbyist. Maybe these are
the only three categories that have ever existed, but today
they represent a small part of the commercial jewelry industry.
Some lament the decline of traditional American or European
jewelry craftsmanship, but rarely are their voices heard above
the majority who crave more and ever cheaper.
The
Easterling Theory:
One possible origin of the term "sterling silver"
originated first as "Easterling Silver". The term "Easterling
Silver" was used to refer to the grade of silver that had
originally been used as the local currency in an area of Germany,
known as "The Easterling".
(This
article written by Mike McGinnis and published originally
on indiasilver.com.
We allow republication provided the piece is copied in its
entirety with links and attribution.)
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